It’s spring time and summers just around the corner. Today, as I walked over to the 20th editon of Gourmetour, I was blessed with a slight breeze that cut down the sun’s growing heat in Madrid. However, despite the heat, everything has been green and beautiful as a result of some brief heavy rains - quite the exception considering the past few years. The weather, in combination with the red and white Spanish wines, along with a Sherry or two, made for a great day. I will share the following notes as an intro to my summer sherry season - the time when I find my refridgerator consistently storing a bottle or two for me to sample. So enjoy the note, and if your starting your sherry season, drop us a line and let us know what your drinking!

Till soon,

Ryan Opaz

• N.V. Bodegas Navarro Montilla-Moriles Fino - Spain, Andalucía, Montilla-Moriles (5/8/2006)
  Incredibly intense nose of nutty salt air and rich hazelnut aromas. Creamy in the mouth with a strong alcohol and good acidity. Lush and tasty this wine screams of nuts and the aromas associated with them while the salt air rounds it out. A very intense interpretation of the style but throughly enjoyable.
  

Spring is here in Spain and the patios are starting to open up along the avenues of Madrid. Madrilenos (Spainards from Madrid) favorite pastime is walking, talking and drinking on the sidewalk while seated side by side. It’s around this time that parents and grandparents are found relaxing during the afternoons, gabbing about everything and nothing along the streetside cafes. Inevitably, it will also include a glass of wine or two or three, depending on whether the subject is political or if it wanders to whose family has the “best” toritlla recipe in Spain. As for me, it’s a chance to get some fresh air before the sweltering summer heat arrives forbidding me to even sip a glass before I melt. Spring in Madrid, and I would assume most everywhere in the world, is a time to rejoice in the rebirth of the earth, new plant life blossoming and birds singing. This season also includes a return to two wines that I tend to sideline during the winter months: sherry and rosés, not because I fail to enjoy them during the winter months, but because I tend to forget about them as I pour over the wine list at the restaurant. However, I once again celebrated its existence by enjoying a bottle of sherry at a local Brazilian restaurant last week and I intend to seek out a nice rosé this coming week.

Dry, off-dry and sweet are the main ways you’ll encounter rosés, and today, I want to highlight one particular Bogegas rosé that I haven’t tasted the likes of before. During my past trip to Barcelona, I was presented with my first ever barrel fermented rosé! That’s right, a rosé fermented and then aged in a barrel! Before all the anti-oak rants start, keep this in mind: when done right, oak doesn’t have to be a primary flavor, but rather a component of the whole. That was the case this time.
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D.O./Region: Alentejo, Portugal
Address: Albernôa 7800-601, Albernôa - Beja
Telephone: +351 289 510 460
Fax: +351 289 510 469
Email: rsoares@malhadinhanova.pt
Web:www.malhadinhanova.pt
Founded: 2003
Hectares of Vines: 20 hectares, 6 more were planted this year
Wine maker:Pedro Garcia - winemaker resident
Luis Duarte - winemaker consultant
Total Production Liters:68,000 liters
Wines Produced: Monte da Peceguina red 2004
Monte da Peceguina white, Monte da Peceguina rosé, Aragonês da Peceguina red, Pequeno João red, Malhadinha white, Malhadinha red
Exporters in the UK and USA:: None in the UK, Almost done negotiating with a US importer

Last month, I had an afternoon appointment at Quinta Malhadinha in the Alentejo. My goal was to visit a Cooperative in Reguengos and then head South past Beja to this new winery in the hopes of finding some new exciting Portuguese wines. I was well aware that it was a bit of drive, so I took the rare occasion to sit back and enjoy the sunny day with my windows rolled down allowing the wind to caress my shiny bald head. About an hour after I set off to the winery, I saw the white and blue estate perched on top of a hill beckoning me inside its shiny white walls. The hard part was not so much locating the estate, but rather finding the exact way to get to its front door. Like a mouse in a maze looking for that sweet morsel of cheese, or in this case a glass or two of wine, I ended up having to pull more than one u-turn to find the off-ramp that would eventually lead me to my goal.

Arriving a little after two in the afternoon, I pulled into the main parking area which sat between three buildings. To the left, sat the estate where the owners lived whose white-washed walls were skirted along the bottom by a glowing blue band typical of the Alentejo. Looking to your right sat a modern building with large glass doors hinting at the stainless steel tanks within forming the heart and soul of the operation. Directly infront of me stood a large wooden stable. This was later confirmed when I toured the property that indeed, both horses and poultry resided near here, but we’ll delve deeper into this topic later.
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When I worked in my liquor store back in the States, I became enamored with old, long lost cocktails that once held a place in the better bars around the world. I studied the Martini, originally 4 parts red vermouth to 1 part gin. I fell in love with the Manhattan, only after I found that the key was straight rye whiskey and high end vermouth. Soon, I found myself collecting vermouth from around the world to use in these once “exotic” drinks, feeling as though I was one of the few who recognized the essential ingredient of good vermouth to mix a fantastic drink. Boy was I wrong!

Allow me to clarify myself in that I still love my mixed drinks and will accept a properly made Manhattan at the drop of a hat, but what I failed to realize is the basic truth to it all - if you can’t drink the vermouth by itself, why use it in a mixed drink? That’s right, I said it, DRINK VERMOUTH BY ITSELF! I know it sounds strange to an American, but any of my European readers are probably saying to themselves, “DUH!”

It was shortly after arriving in Spain when I started to see signs in bars announcing that they had Vermut de Grifo, or Vermouth on tap. I thought to myself, “Silly Spaniards, don’t they know how to use vermouth correctly?” I couldn’t find one good Martini glass in any bar around town, but they had vermouth on tap? For months, I ignored the signs and stuck to my guns swearing that vermouth was to mix, not to drink.

Now, fast forward approximately six months to a dark stormy night when we met up with a few new friends whom we I had found on the blog The Full Bottle maintained by a Spaniard and an American living in Madrid. Having food and wine as our mutual interests, the conversation pretty much stayed in the same vein all night. Eventually, the conversation meandered towards Vermouth when I asked Juan what his thoughts on vermouth being sold on tap. His was response was not what I had initially expected when he said, “I like it!” Previous to this enthusiastic statement, I believed that only a false wine lover would acknowledge vermouth as a stand alone drink. So, what did we do? We flew out of one vermouth bar and onto another for an evening of Vermouth tastings. (more…)

Editors note: Continuing with the second of two new writers today we have Craig Donofrio who splits his time between South Carolina and New Jersy! I really hoped to find someone like Craig who could help me keep up to date on the goings ons over in the USA. Here’s a tasting note on a wine tasted at the Charleston Food and Wine Festival, let Craig know what you think. Like I said Monday, in a couple of weeks I’ll be introducing our new writers more formally, so stay tuned!

Charleston, South Carolina is a spectacular southeastern (USA) coastal city that is steeped in history, culture and hospitality. Although it has long been a hotbed for eclectic politics (the first shots of the Civil War were fired here) and religion (nickname “holy city” because of all the houses of worship), the most feverous debate these days seems to be about which of the city’s fabulous restaurants should be visited first. From collards to caviar, grits to foie gras, the city has it all-and the secret is out. So hang on to your seersucker suits ladies and gentleman, because one thing not up for debate is that the next generation of (culinary) carpetbaggers is on the way. This time, however, they’re waving their black Am Ex cards and toting Louis Vuitton bags.

During a recent trip to Charleston for the star-studded 1st annual Distinctively Charleston Food and Wine Festival, I had the pleasure of rediscovering the wines of Rioja producer Mayor de Migueloa. I was first introduced to these wines over a year ago while purchasing for Charleston’s favorite French brasserie (39 Rue de Jean) and was impressed by the focused but traditional style and attractive pricing. After learning that the bodega is located in the beautiful village of Laguardia in Rioja Alavesa (often regarded as the best sub-region in Rioja), I was disappointed I hadn’t stumbled upon the winery during an extensive Spanish wine tour the previous winter. Fortunately, The Charleston Trading Company (828.324.6330), an importer based in Hickory, NC, has begun distribution of the Migueloa wines in Charleston and other select South Carolina cities through Advintage Distributing.

2001 Rioja (Crianza), Mayor de Migueloa “Multus”, 100% Tempranillo
The wine is light ruby in color with moderate viscosity. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry and plum intermingle with sweet vanilla. On the palate, the red and black fruits are wrapped with subtle earth, spice and a balanced, sweet vanilla oak. The acidity is moderate to moderate plus and the tannins are soft and moderate. In short, a light to medium bodied, well-balanced Crianza to enjoy now with lighter cheeses and tapas.

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